Mark

3 Engines...

New Front Axle due to damage on Cliffhanger in Moab...= 8200 to upgrade and go from the Steering Pump Pittman arm all the way to each wheel hub replaced Brand new. Upgraded to Heavy Duty High lift Dana 44 Front axle with E locker and 4:88 gears to match the old one.

Death wobble no less than 8 different times. The above one being to one I drove the longest with at 1200 miles straight back to where I was working from Moab...

Replace the Drag link Track bar and sway bars- stopped just short of wheel bearings when garage stated they were still in good shape.

Three months later they ended up having to be replaced and that garage said the other one must not have wanted to do the work -It was a dealership in Charlotte NC...

Ripped Track bar off the axle a total of three times will not run JKU on factory bracket removed and installed a Tere Flex Heavy Duty Track Bar mount... worth it since zero issues with Track bar...

Also do not over torque the track bar- brackets or sway bar connectors... that will cause them to snap in high stress situation...

Along with particularly the Steering dampener look down at the windrock set of images...

I was listing the issues...

Improper tube thickness to support the suction... (never thought I would say that much...lol )

So I added the conduits to include rigid conduit for electrical wires...

Then I had to route it a new path I was able to go just above the fender insert Kinda...not perfect by any means stayed in place yes...

Probably bent into position truth be told...

The hole up beside the battery also a very coincidental occurrence...Def no where in their guide going down and back up...

Whats really bad is telling these asshats I have been involved in QA QC all my life for kicks...

and I can tell they didnt even do any research...lol

I had to work out an oiler system because they didnt even attemot to set up the first kit ever...

or they would have seen instantly what I could see...

Then they shifted all blame to new guy...

and they offered to send me tubing...LOLOL. whatever

Oh yea the pre filter I bought from Cat 54 bucks I think who knows...with filter and rubber boot

worse customer service ever....

I had to engineer on the fly with their entire kit nothing had been looked at or even contemplated for a simple 3.8 with ripp set up they sold...

Three engines later...

But what is to be expected...lol

Ill keep it simple...

I will not go into how the chuck wouldnt even fit the template they provided all of it including the bit...

Or the lack of research into the fact that a ripp super charger that river raider even attempted to put in when you can clearly see the tubing they provide when hooked to a normal shop vac let alone a ripp super charger Turbo built for v6...LOL what idiots,...they did absolutely zero research and then sold these as kits for and extreme amount of cash over normal... in fact at the time they were one of the only companies offering a ripp super charged engine snorkel...ask me how I know...

Look at this picture of the 7200 Ripp super charger I installed...

II feel qualified to speak on this matter 100%...

The absolute worst mod I ever had the displeasure of attempting...

With the shittiest responses from customer service I ever heard such bullshgit in a nuttshell they blamed the new guy...;p;

No shit...

and then when I said so you mean you didnt have a senior rep looking over the work of the brand new guy.???

And I get crickets...switch topic...and please let us charge you more to fuck you in life even more... LOL
No thanks...

instead I overcame and preservered... LOL whatever...

Plus a jeep shot...

I vcan reuse everyone of the connections also make sure to buy the best clip on valve stem connections that spring load into position not clamp they suck...

Your price is going to be higher...

First off get a weather proof hose not the cheap one I bought they will dry rott on you in less than a yr... Trust me...

The rest actually all worked great pump did get really hot so keep that in mind but I find it works about the same as having a dual cylinder pump in the back of the jeep and doing the tires one at a time deflate was perfect since the pressure was exactly equal in each of the four tires filling up also again dead nutts... but took a minute or two and I prefer to let the pump cool down a bit so there is a lot of dead time...

Your Jeep hood says things about you like My jeep needs a lot of fresh air...

Or my jeeps so hot I need vented hoods and cold air intakes... lol

Light bars add 5 mph its proven...

Making a set of solid latches can be as cheap as 25 bucks at the local ACE or Home depot or more depending on the parts you chose to use...

mine shown down there cost me right at about 30 bucks I think

Ive included a list... enjoy...

Stop that annoying hood flutter for ever...

1/4 x 2" clevis lock pin
1/4 x 1/4-28 male right hand rod end
1/4 x 1/4-28 female right hand rod end
1/4-20 x 2" stainless bolt
1/4-20 stainless nylon lock nut

parts.txt

The lights no sold are more than likely RGB red Green Blue combinations and allow for a varied array of colors across the white light spectrum...

You will find they always look and appear better in person...

always...

I held free giveaways back in the day here...

and one of the set ups with the light bar and pods and rock lights we gave away to a couple people...

I always run my wires out of sight crimp and tape as expected run through at least one fuse most times two and always for heavy draw current use of relays and keep wires out of cabin area...

Yes they will divert small overhanging light branches limbs... like leaves...

If you use a chain like link from Home depot dont be surprised to see the links simply all spread out and gap...making the lib riser loose on your vehicle and subject to flapping and more stretching well I think you get the idea...

Do they give the jeep a Bad as Trail riding look You bet ya 100% and I like the appearance so I suggest a couple refinements of you want functionality as well as looks...

Use Cables over Chains and links...

Use solid Clamps you can wrench on and not break...

Use connections to your mounts that are sturdy as you can within reason...

I paid to have some cut out of stainless steel they wont rust can be painted and they are solid sturdy...to a point your not going to raise my jeep from the bottom of a lake clearly but a normal branch say 1" could be diverted provided your moving slow enough to allow it to function...

You can go solid chain welded but Then the weight is on your light bar or roof mounts however you decide to mount your style...

but the fenders can support your jeep so when using the chains to pull your jeep out remember your asking for something major to bend...

Limb risers are not recovery points...

Keep in mind if you can see the cable inside you will soon see the rust from the cable inside as well...

Choose wisely...

That door edge trim is 1 dollar a foot and you can get about 40 feet worth for 40 bucks...

You should be fine then...

I always buy extra just in case...

You can see a good way is to tape a cut line then make sure you cut the fender you can always get the parts out of the way to see what the next obstacle is in the way... and how to get around or remove it...

Questions Ask... Ill be glad to help I have chopped apart 16 or so JKs so many I held a workshop all day at the lake and chopped fenders all through the day...

You could use a Saws all and let it jump all over the place and look all red neck and shit...

Or you could use a Jig saw less jumping more precise of a cut...

works pretty well over all... then sand some...

Or you can use a really good dremel with a metal cutting wheel and you can blend the cut lines out using the back side of the blade to melt smooth things in there... and then you can thin the walls down a bit with a tapper so you can slide edge guard on and rock that look here are a few of the different things I do...

1 watch videos of how people cut JK fenders and learn where and how and when to remove the blinker wires and plan and whatever else like the bottom support holding up on the fender... stuff like that...

I had a switch go bad requested a replacement they said they dont do that anymore...

I paid 29 bucks I think got a new one four months later same thing happened luckily not when it was needed so I decided to keep the remote wired in from now on and eliminate the problem see images thats what I did...

Also folks the badges stay with driver not jeep...

All in one place stock through today...

Rock rear bumper is still riding...

Bill Kidd made these so I bought one...

I monsta lined mine of course... and I have broken the eyes three different times...

I had ordered the fender inserts and the hood Limb riser cut out of steel also... So I painted it up one night

I had the XRC fenders Powder coated in Cherry along with the studs and bolts...lets say the guys werent as impressed with setting them all up as I was in the finished product... looked great until I learned now I had four shades of red rock crystal ...

So Thats when after a very short time of about four months decided I wanted red and black and durable to do the trail rig up right since I also now was looking at the JL I ended up buying...

Then Scratches appeared as if over night almost...

Well I decided I wanted some Bad ass Armor so I went XRC,,, Love the shit... except installation...

I wouldnt care if I ever heard of Rivets and NutCerts Yep Nutt Inserts... or what we call Crush Nutts...

Anyhow more pics...now...

I had to cut off the Posion Spider side rails to match XRCs The right fender for example in XRC comes onto the side support for the bottom of the door where Posion spider includes up the fender frontwards see the two sections removed after a few measurements...